A Small Group Adventure to Sierra Leone

There’s something undeniably special about being part of a “first.” First steps, first friendships, first flights to a new destination, and now, most excitingly, our very first small group tour to Sierra Leone. With just four of us, aged 44 to 82 (yes, this group absolutely proved age has zero bearing on sense of adventure!), we set out to explore one of West Africa’s most underrated destinations. And what we found was a country rich in beauty, culture, resilience, and unexpected delights.

Sierra Leone has been growing steadily in popularity over the last couple of years, and thanks to this wonderful inaugural experience, we’ve already added new departures for 2026 and 2027. And deservedly so. Though Sierra Leone is often celebrated for its picturesque, crowd-free beaches (that really are as magical as the photos), you quickly discover it’s so much more.

Runway to Waves: An Arrival into Sierra Leone is Like No Other

Arriving in Sierra Leone isn’t like arriving anywhere else, and your adventure starts as soon as you hit the airport. Instead of the usual airport-to-hotel transfer routine, the journey into Freetown begins with a jolt of energy. After clearing the slightly overwhelming and chaotic airport formalities, our group was met by our private transfer rep and taken straight down to the nearby seaport. Bags were piled into the vehicle, the breeze rolled through, and the golden Sierra Leone late afternoon light cast everything in a warm glow, especially just after a powerful rainstorm.

The reason we headed straight to the seaport was that, like many others, our journey to the mainland was via the SeaCat. A fast, very busy ferry that whisks travellers from the airport peninsula across to the mainland. The 45-minute journey is an experience in itself. Locals chatting animatedly, luggage stacked almost impossibly high in the overhead bins and along the aisles, sea spray flicking across the deck, and fellow travellers soaking it all in. There’s even some ‘interesting’ viewing on the big screen TVs onboard… if big game fishing is your thing, you are in for a treat! There is something exciting about beginning your holiday by boat, although after a long international flight, the chaos of it all can feel a bit overwhelming! We were certainly glad we didn’t opt for the more budget public ferry, as I can only imagine how busy this would have been. Unfortunately, due to the flight arrival time, we didn’t get any of the picturesque views on our journey as it was already dark. However, by the time we stepped onto the bustling shores of Freetown, we certainly felt like we were already immersed in bustling Sierra Leonean life.

Freetown: A City Alive with Stories

Our first full day was spent discovering a variety of Freetown’s highlights, and what a vibrant introduction it was. Colourful, energetic, musical, warm and surprising. Freetown sweeps you up into its rhythm within minutes. From the moment we stepped into the city, there was a sense of movement and life everywhere, a captivating mix of history, culture, and everyday bustle that set the tone for the rest of our adventure.

One of the most surprising and delightful sights on arrival was seeing just how many Saturday morning park runs take place across the city. Literally hundreds of locals were out jogging in various different colourful charity t-shirts, weaving their way through different neighbourhoods with huge smiles and plenty of energy. It’s something I’m so used to seeing in the UK, but I genuinely didn’t expect to see it on such a large scale in Freetown, and it was brilliant. With those sweeping coastal views and fresh sea breezes, it’s hard to imagine a more inspiring place for a morning run.

We began our day at the National Railway Museum, an unexpected gem tucked away yet bursting with character. Now, a railway museum wouldn’t necessarily be top of my ‘must visit’ lists in a destination; however, the passionate volunteers greeted us with such genuine enthusiasm that it was hard not to get fully engaged in the history of the Sierra Leone railways. Everyone we met was happy to share stories and answer any questions, and everyone showed a genuine passion for the restoration and preservation of the trains, carriages and memorabilia. We wandered through beautifully restored locomotives and carriages, each polished lovingly and to perfection. The standout, of course, was the royal carriage built for the Queen. Recently repainted, still regal and still carrying the echoes of a bygone era. The visit offered a wonderful glimpse into Sierra Leone’s rail history and how transport once shaped the country’s development.

Next, we stepped into the world of folklore at the National Museum, where the exhibits reveal the soul of Sierra Leone. Intriguing artefacts and statues lined the rooms. Some of them… let’s just say, were very visually intense! But every piece told a story. From traditional beliefs to historic battles, each display deepened our appreciation for the country’s cultural heritage and the spirits, heroes, and legends that form its narrative. A guided tour here brought the stories to life, and even with the short visit, I came away with a much greater understanding of the different facets of life in Sierra Leone.

Next, we visited the nearby remains of the once-majestic Cotton Tree, a powerful symbol that stood at the heart of Freetown for centuries. Although it sadly didn’t survive a recent storm, getting to stand beside what remains still allows you to consider everything that the tree has witnessed over its incredibly long life. The site feels almost sacred, a place where generations gathered, celebrated, and sought hope. Now, in the middle of a bustling roundabout, it is still a focal point for tourists and locals alike.

From there, we plunged headfirst into local life at the bustling Saturday market, and it was an instant sensory overload! A true kaleidoscope of colour, movement, and sound, the market felt alive from every angle. Narrow pathways twisted between stalls overflowing with everything imaginable. From stacks of cooking pots and bright plastic buckets to single balloons, sweets, spices, flip-flops, fabric, and an impressive array of everyday essentials. Sellers called out their prices, music drifted from tiny tin speakers, children weaved playfully through the crowds, and the air was filled with the smell of fried snacks and fresh produce. It was gloriously manic, wonderfully vibrant, and completely authentic. If you want to feel the heartbeat of Freetown, its energy and its daily rhythm, then this is exactly where you find it. I honestly believe you could find anything you needed here… where you’d find it among the many, many streets and stalls might be the issue though!

A completely different atmosphere awaited us at St George’s Cathedral, where we were lucky enough to stumble upon a boys’ choir in mid-rehearsal. Their harmonies floated through the stone interior, soft yet powerful, bouncing off the walls with a purity that stopped us in our tracks. We sat quietly, soaking in the moment, one of those unexpected travel gifts you remember forever. After taking the time to read some of the plaques on the wall and learn about some of the prominent people associated with the church over the years, our guide enthusiastically directed us to the visitor book signed by the Queen many, many years back, but now proudly laminated for all to see.

Our browsing continued at the craft market next door, where stall after stall displayed colourful fabrics, wooden carvings, jewellery, and handmade treasures. I picked up some gorgeous West African materials, one of my favourite things to buy on trips, thanks to their vibrant colours, bold patterns, and beautiful quality. A little friendly bargaining added to the fun, and I left with a bundle of fabrics I couldn’t wait to take home. No idea what I will use the fabric for, but I love my ever-growing collection!

Next came something entirely unique: a view of an electricity boat – not an electric boat… an electricity boat. Yes, Freetown has a floating power station anchored just offshore, quietly providing energy to parts of the city. It’s one of those fascinating little quirks you only discover when you’re actually there, and seeing it up close was surprisingly impressive, albeit not the prettiest sight in the city! This remains one of my favourite sights from the tour as it was just so unexpected.

From there, we continued uphill through Freetown’s old historic district, a charming area filled with large colonial-style houses that still stand proudly today. Many are now home to local Sierra Leoneans, creating a unique blend of old architecture and modern life. As we climbed higher, the city views unfolded beneath us until we reached the Country Lodge Hotel. Perched elegantly above the city, it offered sweeping panoramic vistas, along with a chance to look around its large rooms and restaurant. Peaceful, breezy, and beautifully situated, it’s easily one of the best viewpoints in Freetown.

Unfortunately, when we were there, the infamous Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary was closed to visitors due to well-publicised encroachment issues, highlighting the delicate balance between conservation and expanding communities in the region. Whilst this was extremely disappointing, as I have wanted to visit here for many years, we completely supported the reasoning. Instead, we visited a nearby village where locals put on a cultural performance of traditional music and dance. It was lively, colourful, and completely infectious. The kind of performance that pulls you in, whether you intended to join or not. Whilst it did feel a little strange at first, just the four of us sat on four little plastic chairs for this ad-hoc performance, the dancing was so good that workers from a neighbouring construction site soon wandered over to watch too! A wonderful, joyful finale to an amazing first day in Freetown.

Yes, we genuinely did all of this on Day 1. It was a full, exciting, immersive introduction to Sierra Leone, giving us a real feel for Freetown’s energy, history, culture, and daily life right from the start. By the time we returned to our hotel that evening, we felt as though we’d already experienced a week’s worth of adventures, and the best part was knowing this was only the beginning of our incredible journey.

Beaches, Boats, and Flavours of Freetown

The next couple of days were all about Sierra Leone’s incredible coastline, each day offering a completely different insight into this country’s rich history and its breathtaking natural beauty. Day 2 took us out onto the water for one of the most historically significant experiences of the entire tour: a private boat journey to Bunce Island. Quiet, atmospheric, and wrapped in thick greenery, Bunce is one of the most important sites connected to the transatlantic slave trade. As we walked through the overgrown ruins with its old walls, crumbling fortifications, and silent courtyards, our guide helped bring the stories of the island to life. Whilst the island is sadly in need of investment to ensure it can be preserved for future generations, it was still sobering, emotional, and deeply meaningful. Standing there, looking out over the river, you can almost feel the weight of the past, and it is a place everyone should see at least once.

From Bunce, we continued by boat to Tasso Island, where the mood shifted to something warmly communal. Here, we were welcomed with a delicious home-cooked lunch prepared by the local community. The options were simple – chicken or fish – but the flavours were full of heart, and the setting made it even better. As we ate, we could watch daily island life unfold around us: fishermen mending their nets, children playing nearby, and neighbours stopping to chat. It was a beautifully authentic experience that offered a glimpse into the rhythm of village life on the islands.

Day 3 was devoted entirely to visiting Sierra Leone’s beaches, and what a treat that was. We began at the legendary River No. 2, one of the most photographed beaches in the country. Visiting on a weekend meant it was alive with energy: families splashing in the waves, music floating from beach bars, locals dancing on the sand, and the smell of grilled fish drifting across the shore. The estuary, where the river meets the Atlantic, was simply stunning. Golden sand, turquoise water, and lush green hills framed the whole scene so perfectly that I kept wishing for a drone, as the aerial photos would have been spectacular! We also had a short visit to Kent Beach, again genuinely beautiful but this time with hardly a soul around, so a lovely place for a gentle stroll along the sand.

Later, back near Lumley Beach, where we were staying at the Atlantic Lumley Hotel, we made the most of Freetown’s vibrant beachfront dining. Here, a number of lively restaurants line the shore, each offering ocean views, good food, and a relaxed atmosphere for both locals and tourists. Dinner at Roy’s became an instant favourite with the sound of the waves just metres away, the golden evening light reflecting off the water, and an extensive international menu to choose from. It was the ideal way to unwind after a day of salt water, sunshine, and sandy feet.

Into the Highlands: Kabala’s Quiet Magic

After three full days in Freetown, we set off into the countryside toward Kabala, a region celebrated for its rolling hills, cooler temperatures, and peaceful rural charm. The journey itself felt like a transition into a completely different side of Sierra Leone. We began on smooth tarmac roads, passing small villages, colourful roadside stalls where we purchased bananas and cashew nuts to enjoy en route. Gradually, the landscape shifted, the air grew fresher, the hills rose higher, and the road turned to a bumpy gravel track, winding its way deeper into the mountains. Whilst this was a long journey, it really did give us a chance to see a part of the country that remains relatively undiscovered by tourists.

Our overnight stay at Kabala Hill View was rustic but in keeping with the region. The accommodation offered basic ensuite rooms with cold-water showers and bucket flush toilets, but what they lacked in luxury, they more than made up for in location. Our rooms each had a private terrace that stretched out toward the hills, giving us uninterrupted views of layered ridges fading into the distance. As the sun set, the whole landscape turned shades of gold and amber, and a sense of calm settled over everything. It was the kind of place where the view is the luxury, and you wouldn’t want it any other way.

Early evening came one of the most joyful, unexpected moments of the entire trip: a surprise birthday celebration for me! On finding out it was my birthday, the team had secretly arranged a homemade cake, complete with singing, dancing, and a lively performance by local villagers. Their enthusiasm was infectious with rhythmic clapping, traditional moves, and so much laughter. It was heartfelt, genuine, and such a warm reminder of the kindness and hospitality that define this region. The bright green cake they had prepared was absolutely delicious, far too big for just our small group, so it was happily shared with others staying at the lodge and those from the local village, much to the joy of the children. It is certainly a birthday I’ll never forget.

Dinner that night was a generous plate of chicken and rice. Simple, comforting, and exactly what we needed after a full day of travel. Breakfast the next morning was an omelette with bread, eaten while soaking up the cool morning air and listening to birds calling from the hills. It was a peaceful, grounding start to the day.

While in Kabala, we visited a local women’s co-operative. Here, women come together to farm, process goods, and support their households despite enormous challenges. There was nothing touristy about this experience, and they proudly showed us the tools they use, the crops they grow, and the ways they work together to overcome the difficulties of accessing markets or selling their produce at fair prices before it goes off. Their determination and teamwork were truly uplifting, and it was lovely to get to speak openly with the women about their lives, their families and their hopes for the future.

Whilst we didn’t have time for further activities, we only had a short time here. Kabala is most known as a walker’s paradise. With trails for every ability, it offers everything from gentle hillside strolls, like those around Gbawuria Hill, to demanding treks such as the climb up Mount Bintumani, Sierra Leone’s highest peak. Even from the foothills, the views are spectacular. Sweeping landscapes of valleys, forests, and rolling mountains that make you feel like you’ve stepped into another world. Seeing how wonderful these landscapes are, I have altered the group tours for 2026/7 so there is more time here to enjoy one of the many hikes/walks on offer, or if preferred, spending more time just relaxing surrounded by the beautiful views.

Makeni: Community, Culture & Connectedness

From Kabala, we made our way back toward Makeni, a lively regional hub with a very different feel from the hills we had just left behind. Our base for the night was the Wusum Hotel, and after the bumpy mountain roads, the sofas in reception were a welcome relief. The swimming pool was also well-received and in great condition. After days of travel, jumping quickly into the cool but refreshing water was the perfect way to reset, and we enjoyed every second!

In Makeni, we enjoyed lunch at a small, locally owned café in town. The owner was so friendly and absolutely delighted we had come to try the food. The dishes were bold, spicy (very), and unapologetically authentic. Exactly the kind of meal that tells you you’re truly in Sierra Leone. Think rich sauces, vibrant flavours, and certainly enough heat to wake up your taste buds. It was a delicious introduction to Makeni’s food scene.

From Makeni, we set off for Rogbonko Village, a completely off-grid community that ended up being one of my favourite experiences of the entire tour. As our vehicle pulled in, the welcome was immediate and electrifying with the beat of drums, bright smiles, children running alongside us, and an energy that radiated pure joy. This wasn’t a performance just put on for tourists out of routine; it was a community celebration, and we were simply invited to be part of it. The villagers performed traditional dances dressed in beautifully handmade costumes that were full of character. Each movement told a story, each rhythm carried meaning, and the pride in their cultural heritage was unmistakable. After the dancing, we were shown beautiful handwoven crafts. The prices were incredible, and the craftsmanship even more so. It was good to support the artisans directly, as when they are sold at the markets in Freetown, the goods are charged at much higher prices, but the villagers who make them don’t see any of this profit; it all goes to the bigger sales merchants.

Partway through the festivities, the skies suddenly darkened, and then came the rain. Not just a drizzle, but the kind of torrential Sierra Leone downpour that arrives with a roar you can hear before the first drops even fall. Within seconds, we were soaked, but laughing, and scrambling for shelter. However, instead of ending the celebration, it simply transformed it. We all relocated to the village school building, where the drumming and dancing continued with even more enthusiasm. It was chaotic, joyful, and absolutely unforgettable as the kids were loving splashing around in the muddy puddles, much to their parents’ dismay. One of those wonderfully unpredictable travel moments that ends up becoming a favourite memory. The only casualty of the storm was our planned forest walk, which would’ve required snorkels rather than hiking boots by that point! But honestly, the experience we had felt even more special.

Banana Island Bliss

After Makeni, we made our way back to Freetown, ready to swap city streets for island life. From the busy mainland shoreline, we climbed aboard a small fishing boat, the only way to reach the remote beauty of Banana Island. The moment the engine started, and we pulled away from the coast, it felt like we were entering another world entirely. The water shimmered, the mainland slowly shrank behind us, and the hills and beaches of Sierra Leone unfolded into a postcard-perfect backdrop. The boat ride alone was worth the journey, offering stunning views of untouched shoreline, tiny fishing villages, and dense tropical forests tumbling down to the sea.

Our home for the next two nights was Dalton’s Guesthouse, a place that truly embraces the “back to basics” spirit. Accommodation here is simple and rustic. Traditional round huts, but with ensuite flushing toilets, cold-water showers, and mud paths leading right to the beach. No frills, no fuss, and absolutely no distractions. If you want to disconnect, this is the place to do it.

There’s something grounding about staying somewhere so stripped back. The days felt longer, the air felt cleaner, and the sound of the waves became an instant lullaby. During our stay, we joined a fascinating history tour of the island, learning about its past inhabitants, its role in regional trade, and the challenges of island life. We also took a boat excursion around the coastline, passing hidden coves, rocky outcrops, and stretches of untouched forests that looked almost prehistoric. When we weren’t exploring, we were relaxing. Swinging lazily in hammocks, reading on sunloungers, watching fishing boats drift across the horizon, and soaking up the tranquillity that Banana Island is so famous for. It’s the kind of place where time seems to stretch, and the simplicity becomes part of the charm.

Food options were extremely limited mid-week, although barracuda lovers were definitely in for a treat, as it featured heavily on the menu alongside rice or potatoes. Breakfast was typically eggs. But somehow, the minimal choice fit the experience perfectly. On a remote island with no supermarkets, no fridges brimming with options, and everything cooked fresh from what’s available, the simplicity was refreshing.

More Beaches, Villages & A Perfect Ending

Back on the mainland after Banana Island, we first made our way to Bureh Beach, one of Sierra Leone’s most peaceful and picturesque stretches of sand. I think this was genuinely my favourite beach to visit, and whilst some might argue it isn’t the most beautiful, I liked the vibe with the simple cafe overlooking the sea. Plus, the combinations of sand, sea, rocks and mountains, to me, gave it one of my favourite beach views from the trip. After the rustic charm of Banana Island, Bureh felt beautifully expansive with a long, unspoilt sweep of golden sand framed by gentle waves and backed by lush greenery. We took our time strolling along the shoreline, letting the warm water lap at our feet and enjoying the serenity of a beach that felt almost entirely our own. Along the way, we met two friendly local artisans displaying their handmade crafts on simple wooden stands, bright African materials made into a variety of goods, hand-made jewellery and hand-carved wooden goods all featured heavily. Again, the goods were simple, yet beautiful, and it was all offered at genuinely great prices, without any hassle or pushy sales tactics, but of course with huge smiles and friendly banter.

From Bureh, we continued onward to York, a traditional fishing village brimming with character. The moment we arrived, the energy was unmistakable with thousands of brightly painted fishing boats lining the shore, bobbing gently in the water or pulled up across the sand like a colourful patchwork. Fishermen hauled nets, women sorted the morning catch, children darted between boats, and the entire village buzzed with the rhythm of daily life. The smell of a traditional fishing village was prominent as soon as we stepped from the vehicle, and it was good to see that this traditional job still exists for many, despite the unfortunate arrival of big commercial fishing boats owned by foreign countries.

In true travel fashion, we learned after arriving that we needed head coverings to enter the area respectfully, nothing to do with religion, we learned: it is part of the historic cultural practices of fishing villages in the region. With our scarves buried somewhere deep in our luggage, we resorted to a bit of creative thinking and turned our recently purchased African tote bags into makeshift headscarves. Functional? Absolutely. Fashion-forward? Definitely not. But it sparked plenty of laughter, and as always, made for a brilliant travel story.

Our final destination was where we would spend our final few nights, and it was pure bliss: The Place at Tokeh Beach, a luxurious slice of paradise that felt like a dream after days of moving around. This stunning resort sits on a long stretch of white sand with a turquoise ocean that glimmers in the sunlight. Enjoyed by both locals and tourists, this busy hotel is famous for being ‘the’ place to stay in Tokeh… its name even tells us this!

The beachfront restaurant served some of the best food of the trip, from fresh seafood to tapas to beautifully spiced Indian dishes. All enjoyed with panoramic views of the sea. The chalet rooms here were spacious and thoughtfully designed, featuring huge bathrooms, powerful showers, deep, comfortable beds, and air-conditioning that felt like heaven after the tropical heat and basic infrastructure on Banana Island. It was the perfect balance of comfort and style, and certainly enough luxury to make it feel like a reward at the end of our adventure. We spent our last days by the sea exactly as they should be spent: sunlounging, dipping between the pool and the ocean, eating incredible seafood, sheltering under umbrellas during dramatic tropical downpours, and returning to our loungers as soon as the sun reappeared. Sunset cocktails became a ritual with the sky turning shades of orange and pink as the waves gently rolled in. It was peaceful, warm, and utterly relaxing.

A Journey to Remember

Sierra Leone surprised us, moved us and delighted us. From its empty beaches to its vibrant cities, from village dances to mountaintop views, from emotional history to joyful celebrations, every day brought something new. For our first small group tour to this country, it was everything we hoped for and more. Of course, I have learnt from the trip and made a few small tweaks to improve logistics and get the best from the time in the country, that’s what these first trips are all about. For those joining us in 2026 and 2027, prepare for a journey where the memories will stay with you long after you’ve left the Sierra Leone shores.